Kaza (Bike Repair & Tourist day)

Woke early to the sound of Dad shouting "Go Away!" to some very persistent flies buzzing around his head.
We head through town looking for an engineers workshop to repair the damaged carrier.Eventually located on the far bank of the river we thought we'd hit the jackpot.
However it soon became apparent that these guys were cowboys who had no idea.Did you know that an Arc welder can be use to cut a slot in steel? I certainly didn't!
After getting what I hope will be a repair to the carrier I head for town to try the Internet again.
And guess what? I can finally log onto my blog!Suddenly Kaza closes (yes... the whole town) and we are asked to leave the Internet Cafe.Reason: Something in town has expired.
Eventually we make out the story.... One of the local shop keepers was murdered last night. Aparently booze and drowning were a factor.The shops should be open again around 5pm?
Jack, Richard,Adam and I hire a taxi jeep and head for Key Gompa (a Buddist Monastary several km's up the road) while Dad heads back to the
guest house for a snooze.
Key Gompa is spectacular. Looking like a fantacy castle perched atop a mountain whis place is home to 150 Buddist Monks.We are invited inside and given tea. After which follows a guided tour of the various shrines and temples. With shoes off of course.
This place is full of paintings and documents what if housed in NZ would be in strictly environmentally controlled conditions, and definitely
not on public display.
The Monastary sits around 3800 metres, and gives of a feeling of calmness to all who visit.
Back in town everything is still closed. However one Internet Cafe breaks the rules.Time for a catch up.

Tabo => Kaza (47km)

We try for an early start to beat the heat. However we only manage to leave by 8am.
3km down the road we come across Adam, bike upside down, trying to sort out his back wheel with a sticky disk break.
20 minutes later we're on our way, Dad bringing up the rear stopping often to use his camera.
As the temp climbs to 40deg I'm glad I didn't do this yesterday on top of the 65km from Nako.
We climb higher up the Spiti river and find the valley opening up.Still with high peaks each side, but the valley floor becomming wide.
Nearing Kaza the brown desert gives way to increasing patches of green as we enter an area served by an irrigation system.
12km from Kaza we catch up with Jack and Richard. Jack's still feeling unwell since this morning, and they've taken shelter from the sun in a
disused concrete shed (possibly a bus stop).
Kaza is a bustling metropolis sweltering under the summer sun.
And Internet - Satellite connection no less!
However this place appears to be determined to do my head in. I can's log onto "blogspot" to update my blog.I can get into Email - but for some reason am unable to upload attachments, no matter how small.

Nako => Tabo (65km)

I leave at 7:30am with Dad and Adam following around 9am.My aim is to beat the heat and be in Tabo by the middle of the day.
The Indian cyclist had left at 7am (sensible) and I catch/pass him within a couple of hours.I pass the "Inner Line" check point (as I leave the Inner Line) without any issue. However then get chased by a pack of dogs.Squirting water at them from my drink bottle appears to be a pretty effective deterant.
On reaching Tabo at 1pm I'm not impressed (the heat is having an effect on me) and the kid squatting in the gutter having a dump does nothing
to change my mind.
I decide to head on to Kaza where I've been told there are phones that work, and Internet!2km out from Tabo my rear carrier breaks. 20 minutes later (and a lot of string) I'm back on the road.
The temp is a balmy 45 deg.
10 km out from Tabo my rear wheel suddenly stops turning.Looking down I see the same problem that crippled Dad's bike for the last couple of days.
Reversing quickly takes the pressure off the quick release. Saving it from snapping as had occurred twice to Dad.
I hitch back to Tabo in a truck. This takes 2.5 hours as the truck stops to unload a truck load of cement. In bags, by hand.
I return to Tabo completely frazzled at 4pm. And am shown to a room suitable for the deranged mountain man that I've become.Complete with floor level squat toilet. I'm beyone caring.
30 minutes later Dad and Adam arrive complete with all the tools I need to repair my bike.
Later that afternoon we also locate Jack and Richard staying in the same town.

Nako - Bike Repair day

Jack and Richard leave for Tabo.Dad hitches back to Rekong Peo to fix is bike again, and purchase a couple of extra tools.
I stand in line for 45 minutes waiting to use the telephone, only to find that I can't call out of the district.Back to the hotel for a snooze in discust.
I discover 2 minute noodles! - here is something I can eat that won't make me sick!3 packets later I'm beginning to feel human again.
During the afternoon I climb the mountain behind Nako to around 4000 metres. This is great.Away from people and filth. I feel at peace for the first time on the trip.
Adam arrives during the afternoon. Lucky for him the temp stays a nice cool 22 deg. instead of the 40deg I had during the climb.Even so in his weakened state the climb takes him 6.5+ hours. Good Effort!He also managed to team up with an Indian cyclist from Calcutta.
Dad returns from Rekong Peo during the evening. Complete with the needed tools to keep us going.

Pooh => Nako (40km, 1000m climb)

I wake at 2:15am to the sound of Adam violently puking in the toilet next door.At 9:15 I leave Adam for dead and head for Nako. There's a stiff hill climb I'm told.
I ride up the Satluj for a few km, then turn off up the Spiti. The climb is spectacular but mean.Several good overhangs and a very precipitius road.
The "JagZig" was demoralising. Seeing trucks coming over the top, and knowing that it would take me a couple of hours to get up to them.
The temp reaches 40 deg on the way up and I'm going through water like it's going out of fasion. It looks like I'm going to run out!
Jack and Richard catch me in their jeep only 10k from Nako. They give me more water, and take most of my gear.
During the last hour I start to cramp, so occasionally walk the flat bits to work the pain out of my muscles.
Made it after 5.5 hours.My back tire is starting to delaminate where it touches the rim. Possibly due to heat?
Dad turned up a couple of hours later. His repaired bike had broken again. Same problem!

Rekong Peo => Pooh (67km)

Still crook so I take a stopper (Imodium) and get ready to go.Only three of us will cycle this part as Richard is still sick so he and Jack will follow by jeep tomorrow.
We only make it 21km when Dad's back quick release snaps. The cause is found to be the rear hub comming apart and stretching the skewer.Now we know the source of the noise that Dad has been chasing for the last three days.
Dad gets a lift by jeep back to Recong Peo do do repairs (AKA welding) while Adam and I carry on to Pooh.
We are stopped at the Inner Line check point and asked for our permits as we enter the Inner Line (close to the border with Tibet).
The last climb up the hill to Pooh almost finishes us off. Why do towns always have to be half way up hillsides!?!?
Tonight Adam is in his element.He's a podiatrist, and on seeing that the hotel owner has a limp sets to work making a splint.
By the time he's done there is a queue of sore feet at the door.

Rekong Peo Recovery day

Dad and Adam go for a day trip up to Kalpa about 6km up the road (1.5 hours climb).I stay in bed for the morning, and Adam heads for the doc.
After finding that the 14k4 Internet dialup from the town wouldn't let you even log on to email I head out shopping for vegetables to create my
own BLAND NZ boilup.
This we did as a group on the roof of the hotel that night.Eating dinner my torchlight (headlamps).

Sangla => Rekong Peo (33k)

Yes - definitely sick.Didn't get much sleep and had to get up for a squirt 4 or 5 times during the night and more during the morning.
Finally took some Imodium to give me some relief and head back to bed for the morning to get some sleep.Unfortunately this is not a cure - just puts the bowel to sleep for a while.
Richard (still sick) and I take it easy while Dad, Adam, and Jack climb the hill behind town to visit a temple.
We leave after lunch, with Richard feeling a little better, and me feeling like crap.
A slow 18km downhill in light rain at times.Down in the valley floor the sun is out and it's hot.
Richard and I find that we have no energy for any uphill. Even the flat is hard.14km up the valley we locate the turnoff for the 6km climb to Rekong Peo.Jack and Richard opt to sit at the bottom and hitch a ride to the top.
I carry on - my theory is that haven eaten nothing, and having no energy I will have no option to digest this damn bug.Sound good in theory?
Reached town about 5 minutes after Dad - he says this will be the only time he ever gets to the top before me!
The views from town are fantastic. Across the valley are huge peaks with hanging glaciers and snow.

Rest Day (Sangla => Chitkul => Sangla). (52k)

Rest Day (Sangla => Chitkul => Sangla). (52k)
Rode up from Sangla up the Chitkul valley.Spectacular scenery.There were a couple of river crossings, one of which had a major bridge washed downstream. This meant that we effectively had the upper valley
to ourselves. No traffic! Great.
On our return to Sangla we find that Richard is sick in bed. He has a virus and can hardly stand.
During the night I come down with a bad case of the shits.I've been feeling a bit unwell for a while now but my recent trials of local food seems to have tipped me over the edge.
Even Malcolm Young's advice of a cork (for backside) and rubber bands (for trouser legs) wouldn't have worked in this case. And the cramps are
bad.

Tapri => Sangla (29km)

Early start... nothing to hang around for here.Roadworks, roadworks and more roadworks. It never ends.
We pass a military training area with live firing going on down in the river bed.Armed guards guard the road to ensure we don't take too much interest.
My front carrier broke when we were just short of the turn off to Sangla.Fortunately I'm right beside a Hydro workers depot when it happens so enlist the help of two workers to get myself mobile again.They hammer the aluminium on the carrier strut flat and then bash a couple of screw holes in it using a square awl. Very agricultural, but it
works.
Very friendly people!
Quite a crowd gather to watch the repair only to be dispersed again by a supervisor (well dressed man with a radio).
Mobile again we tackle the 18km climb to Sangla (hell climb). Average speed 6km/h. Very hot and very steep.(First we raid a rubbish site for some high tensile wire to make perminant repairs to front rack tonight).
We arrive at Sangla several hours after Adam who had accepted a lift up the hill in a dump truck.He's going to have a hard time living this one down!

Sarahan => Tapri (63km)

Had a good look around town in the morning before breakfast.Was invited up to the town Soccer Pitch by the "live in" groundsman to "take snap".I've discovered that here in India most people have Live In occupations. Sleeping and working in the same small room.
After breakfast we head up to the Pheasent Protection Park. This is a much smaller version of the Mt Bruce bird reserve back in the Wairarapa
in NZ. A very pleasent walk up through the trees.
Back to the hotel to use the communal toilet before we leave - only to be put off by meeting my 1st floor level "squat" toilet.I can wait...
17km downhill! Not sure if this is really the right way to start the day.
We continue up the Satluj river valley on a spectacular road often climbing very high above the river with vertical clifs down to the water
1500 feet below.
Stopping for lunch at a roadside Dhaba gives me my 1st taste of real Indian food - Dahl and Rice, with added flies for free.
Passing several tunnel entrances for the local Hydro Electrical scheme on the other side of the river we arrive at Wantoo.This had been our intended hotel stop, however all that we found there was a small shanty town at the side of the road."Hotel in Tapri" we're told. So we carry on through the dust.
Arrived at Tapri shortly before dusk to find the Govt Rest House. A very basic establishment with no hot water and very suspect electrical
wiring.
Dad is sick of rice, so at a local Dhaba he asks for Potato - which is all he gets, boiled and sliced on the plate.The rest of us have Dahl and rice. Not as nice as last time. More flies!
We sleep - broken only by the occassional boom from blasting going on down river.

Rampour => Sarahan (41.8k)

We bike up the river several km and then the 17km climb to Sarahan. The road surface is pretty good, and winds up the hill through an area
covered in apple orchards.
At one point we bike through a Military base (No Stopping and No Photographs). A gun emplacement with armed guards stationed at the top. I
wonder briefly if I should walk up to the gun emplacement to say hello.. then think better of it and carry on.
It rains briefly by the time I reach the top. About an hour ahead of the others, who were once again doing the Tea stop thing lower down.
The HPTDC Hotel lived up to it's reputation, with our waiter having the best English of all that we had met so far.He was almost a splitting image of Manwel from Faulty Towers. Complete with the same mannerisims.

Narkanda => Rampour (67.8k)

Still no power, and camera battery went flat overnight while I learnt how to drive it. So no photographs today.
We start off with a 26km downhill. Slow due to the poor road surface.First down through the forest, and then lower through crop covered hillside.
ZigZag'ing down into the Sutlej river valley we stop for tea and soft drinks at a Dhaba midway down the hill.We have lunch at roadside restaurant 14km from Rampour.
Reaching Rampour Dad and I are 20 minutes ahead of the others, so we stop outside a "Monkey God" temple and take the opportunity for a snooze
in the shade.
After booking into the HPTDC Hotel (Dad's favourite) we head into town for a look around.Most shops are closed as it's a Sunday - however several Barber's are open, as well as a General Store. Sunday must be the accepted day to cut
ones hair.
A couple of kids adopt us and accompany us as we walk across the swing bridge to the other side of the river and back.

Shimla => Narkanda (63k)

The others left around 9am leaving Adam and I behind to sort out my "Inner Line Permit" and try to purchase a camera.We arrived at the District Commisioners at 10am only to be told to come back at 3pm! This wouldn't leave us enough time to cycle to Narkanda
and join the others.
Luckily when it was pointed out that my application had been completed the previous day, but rejected due to photocopy of passport photo we
were told to come back in an hour. Things were looking up.
After cashing up some travellers cheques (not much use from here on in) and purchasing a small Sony camera we arrived back at the District
Commisioners expecting to be given the run around.
All Done!
We're away at 12pm climbing quickly for the first 1.5 hours, and then slowly for the rest of the day.
On arrival at Narkanda at 6pm we find that we are only about 30 minutes behind the others, who had made an effort to stop at every roadside tea
house that could be found.
Unfortunately the power is out - so it's cold showers and dinner by candle light.
Both Jack and I seem to be comming down with colds. Not good for the start of the trip!

Bugger.... in Shimla

I wake up the next morning and go to charge my camera battery.
No Camera! (Hence no photographs at the moment)

I'm hoping that the camera has been left in our vehicle I email Kumar. If it's there I'll pick it up in a few weeks when we get back to Delhi.

I become a tourist.. searching the city centre for shops that sell cameras.

Today is dedicated to sight seeing - while I'm shopping the others are out on their bikes seeing the sights.

Shimla City centre is car free - and at the top of a hill.
If you wish to enter you do so by foot.

I make several trips between the hotel and "The Mall" (city centre).
Although I didn't think we were that high yet I'm finding it quite hard to walk uphill at this altitude. Definitely breaking out in a sweat.

Observation: The Indian people here walk uphill slowly. It's only us westerners who are always in a hurry, and sweating as a result.

I've located a replacement camera... 27,000 ru.
Unfortunately I can't arrange that kind of money until tomorrow when the bank opens at 10am.

Tomorrow we head off by bike around the Spiti Circuit and could be away from Internet for up to two weeks..

Delhi to Shimla

We have an early start today as the car is supposed to collect us at 7am.

7am comes and goes.
At 7:45 our transport arrives. There is some discussion as to whether or not the vehicle is big enough for the five of us +bikes +bags. The driver has a look of disbelief on his face when he sees what he's supposed to transport.

After 2 hours of negotion we cancel the contract. In the process loosing 1400ru of our deposit.

Our host at Hotel Relax - Kumar offers to take care of our transport needs.
Kumar is the closest thing to 'Tony' of the 'Sopranos' that I've ever seen. Everyone worth knowing is a cousin, and everyone's under his thum.

Kumar's vehical is a Toyota Landcruiser with roof racks. More than big enough to transport everything (at a squeeze).

We're loaded and off just after 10am with a 10 hour+ trip ahead of us.
3 blocks later we pull into a service station to check the tyres. Out pile the NZ'ers who then perform their version of a WOF check.

The vehicle fails on one tyre. It's down past the steel belt and the spare is no better. This forces us to zigzag across town in search of the vehicle's depot.
Eventually located 2 tyres are stolen from another vehicle in the fleet.

While we wait Richard tries out a motor scooter belonging to one of the locals.

Then we're off, joining the now 'rush hour' traffic heading North.
After an hour or so broken city gives way to a massive and very smelly rubbish tip, then open fields with rice and sugar.

The journey north is slow, the highway being broken at regular intervals by diversions. Each of these has a quarter foor bump, and traffic slows at each.

In Chandigarh (half way time wise, entry to the hills, and the end of the good road) our problems begin again.

We are stopped at a police checkpoint and held for over an hour while the police decide whether our vehicle has the required permits to operate in their area. (Our vehicle being a Delhi commercial vehicle). Our driver's starting to get stressed....

Once away the trip into the mountains becomes a 5 hour climb very similar to the Akas back in Wellington.

Monkeys sit at the road side and watch us pass.

We arrive at Shimla at around 10:30pm and are immediately set upon by Touts. Dad knows where he wishes to stay (the recommended place is the YWCA) and leads the way on foot with one determined Tout following along.

'WYCA this way Sir' yells the tout as my father stubbonly uses the route he knows. Dad is determined not to let the tout help us at all - as this would then put us in his dept, and require a tip. 'You go that way, and we'll go my way' is the responce.

Unfortunately the YWCA is full, so we navigate to an area of the city free from touts and locate a hotel. (Now dubbed by us as "Hotel Damp").

After showing us to our rooms the proprieter proudly hands out menus.
People place their orders. The proprieter then comes back into the room to inform that the cook went home hours ago - and that all we can have is buttered toast! Which we have.

It's a good, if not somewhat musty sleep.

Independance Day

Today is a public holiday.

We head off to do touristy things... Jama Masjid Mosque, Red Fort, and India Gate. Red Fort and India Gate are closed to the public due to the celebrations.

I take a photo over the crowd of someone pulling snakes from his pockets (small adder sized snakes). I'm immediately told off by a local.

We loiter in the park near India Gate with everyone else, waiting for the prime minister to pass, and India Gate to open again.

A small boy tries to sell Adam a bag of chips and Pepsi. Adam haggles.
By the time ther boy gives up there is a crowd of 80-100 people standing around us cheering the boy on.

During the afternoon Dad and I head for the railway station determined to locate the mysterious "Tourist Office".

On the way we stop to take photos of a family of rats. Only to be chased by a man saying that they were his rats and we owed him money for taking pictures.
Fortunately we new more Hindi than he new English.

NeHar means 'No'
Chaal (pronounced Chilo?) when said with force infers 'Feck Off'.

This time we navagite the area without interception from Touts, and after locating a sign saying 'beware of touts' found the office.

It was upstairs (away from the crowds), very large, and very cool! with multiple aircon units keeping the 20 or so tourists cool.

I confirmed that had the train been running our fare would have been approx 500ru each. Considerably cheeper than what we ended up paying for a vehicle.

Dinner saw us located atop one of the many rooftop restaurants watching kids flying kites and then families setting off fireworks.

That day there were seven children killed. Death by kite.
Some had fallen to their deaths off buildings while kite flying. Others had been run down while flying kites on railway tracks.

This is our last night in Delhi before we ship out to Shimla for the start of our ride.

Starting off badly - a quick lesson

Suffering from Jet lag we wake early at 6am.

Jack and Richard are staying at another hotel not far away, so that's where we head for breakfast.

Then we split up... Adam back to the airport to try to locate his bike, and myself off (by myself... which turns out to not be such a good idea) to try and get train tickets to Shimla for the 16th (tomorrow is Independance Day).

Dad has come down ill... throwing up on a regular basis so even though he knows the ropes in this place there's no option but to head out myself and see what sort of trouble I can get myself into.

The railway station is not too difficult to locate, but then my problems start.

A 'Tout' attaches himself to me and tries desperately to turn me away from the station.

'The tourist travel centre has closed'
'You can't get in here without a ticket'

Eventually after a long chat I say thank you, but I'm going to the station anyway.

'Why?' he asks.. 'It's a waste of time!'
'Because I'm a tourist, and I wish to see some of your rail system' I reply.

'You can't go in there' he says, and as I'm obviously unconvinced he takes me towards the right hand side of the station (being very careful to keep me away from the left side of the station where the following day I found a sign saying 'Tourists! Please IGNORE Touts who tell you the Tourist Office is closed') and up to an armed policeman who was frisking all travellers with a metal detector.

I have no idea what the Tout said to the Police (probably 'here's a plonker') but the Policeman agreed to something and the Tout said
'See... you can't go in'.

I foolishly put myself in his hands.

He put me in a scooter cab with instructions to the driver to take me to the "Govt Tourist Office" in town.

Where I actually ended up was a private tourist office 'registered' with the govt. However you couldn't tell this from the outside, and inside it was air conditioned, and very good english was spoken.

No trains I am told. Bridge is down on the Shimla line.Your only option is to hire a vehicle to drive you there.10,000 Rupies (+ tax) should do it.

So a booking and deposit was made.

I then proceeded to get VERY lost trying to find my way home.
After two hours of walking in circles in the 47 degree heat, and being tricked out of 2000 Rupies I give up and hire a scooter cab to take me home to a nice cold shower.

New Delhi - First introductions

Delhi... Nothing could have prepared me for this.There are people everywhere!Asd soon as we cleared customs we had to fightour way through hordes of people touting for
business.

'Stay in our hotel...'

'Use my Taxi...'

'I'm your friend...'

Luckily our hotel had pre-arranged to meet us at the Airport. And with bikes we weren't hard to identify. One face in the croud helf his sign a little higher than the rest - and there were our names!

Our transport turned out to be a very small old battered mini van taxi.

'Yes we can carry two bikes' we'd been assured via email when we made the booking.

And so they did... lying one on top of the other over an old roof rack. To complete the bike rack an old hemp tope was thrown across the top.

With every bump in the road (the road is more bumps than flat) everything on the roof groaned and creeked.

Stops being made occassionally to re-tie the rope (This guy was an expert in slip knots).

The ride in was unbelievable.There are no road rules, and the only way to describe the driving is to compare it to New Zealand Go-Karting... on a grand scale.

I have absolutely NO idea how these guys avoid hitting each other.

Horns are used as the primary means of communication between drivers. After all... that's why horns were invented isn't it?

It's polite to honk when you start your passing manouver - or for road rage. It's hard to tell the difference.

One driver used his indicators.... everyone simply ignored him. Obviously having no idea what
those pretty yellow flashing lights are for.

We passed an intersection held by traffric lights. Cars lined up 6 wide and hundreds deep, mirror to mirror, like Formula One drivers ready to go.

At one corner the traffic island in the centre of the road was adorned by 20+ brown bodies lying
asleep on the concrete!

Then the taxi suddenly stoped and the driver dissapeared.

Back after a couple of minutes he apologised for having to stop at this Shrine (Hindu) every time he drives past.

Our hotel is very close to the centre of Delhi, and named 'Hotel Relax'.As we bounce our way towards it dodging scooters, bicycles, cows, dogs and people this place looks anything but relaxing...

But the room is clean. Which is more than you can say for outside.Very late we head for bed.

Singapore

Spent today in central Singapore.Tried a 'Local Breakfast' of Roast Duck on Noodles.
Raffles Hotel (& attached Museum) gave a very good idea of class difference back when Singapore
was first established. Not to mention today.... Possibly somewhere my parents will stay when they
feel the need to blow the last of their kids inheritance!
Funan Digital Centre was a huge multi story 'boys toys' shop specialising mainly in anything
vaugely technical. We came off very lightly (considering I was there) with our (Dads) only
purchase being a camera tripod for use on our trip.
A considerable amount of time was spent unsuccessfully looking for an Internet Cafe. Nobody
seemed to have any idea where any were, or if in fact any exist).
No trip to Singapore would be complete without a visit to the Singapore Museum of History.
Unfortunately hunger overtook us and we headed back to back at Funan Digital to visit one of the
many cafes in the AIR CONDITIONED mall.
A stroll down the river saw us back at the hotel in time for a shower before being picked up for
the trip back to Singapore Airport.
Our arrival in Delhi found us exit the plane in 32 degrees at 9pm.With these kind of temperatures things certainly weren't looking good for tomorrow.

Wellington to Singapore

We left Wellington after biking to the Airport in a very cold Southerly.
Airways had been so keen to be rid of me that they had sent Linda from Payroll up to Auckland to
ensure that I made the international connection.
Ashley, our CEO even saw fit to accompany us on our flight to Singapore.We arrived to 29 Degrees in Singapore. A far cry from the sub-arctic temperatures left behind in
NZ
My first introduction to our (very nice) hotel was watching a MONSTER cockroach crawl up out of
the drain.

Itinerary - This will change

Listed for my benefit as much as anyone else’s..

AUGUST 13 Arrive Delhi
14 Delhi
15 Delhi (Independence Day)
16 train to Shimla
17 Shimla
18 Shimla to Narkanda 64km
19 Narkanda to Rampur 73km (27km downhill)
20 to Sarahan 40km
21 to Sangla 92km
22 Baspa Valley day trip
23 to Recong Peo 51km
24 Recong Peo
25 to Puh 78km
26 to Nako 42km
27 to Tabo 50km
28 Tabo
29 to Kaza 47km
30 Kaza & Ki Gompa
31 to Losar 58km
SEPT 1 Kunzum La 4550m & Chandra Tal (camp) 30km rough rd
2 Chhota Dara 42km rough rd
3 Gramphoo 31km rough rd
4 to Manali via Rohtang La 3980 m 64km (13km up, 51km down).
5 In Manali (organise trek), then to Kullu 34
6 Jibhi 60km
7 Jibhi
8 Jibhi
9 bus or bike to Manali
10 trek (shorter or longer options)
11 trek
12 trek
13 trek
14 trek
15 trek
16 trek
17 trek
18 Drive to Dharamsala from end of trek eg Bir, Chamba
19 Dharamsala
20 bus to Manali to collect bikes (unless trekking firm brings them to Dharamsala)
21 bus Manali to Delhi
22 fly out end of day

What have I signed up for....

Wednesday 1st August. My "stay at home and grow old gracefully" challenged parents have just advised their intent to inflict themselves on the unsuspecting country of India (once again). Note to self.. check with Indian High Commission in Wellington to see if India has recovered yet from previous 2005 Rhodes visit..

After a particularly torrid morning of the usual doing battle with Bill Gates, and in the process very quickly loosing my sanity I took the rather out of character step of volunteering to accompany my “Olds” on their latest venture into un-chartered territories.

Truth be known…. I need them to show me the ropes. Since my greatest escape from New Zealand to date was a trip to Australia for my honeymoon. Great fun at the time, but now that Australia is regarded as an extension of New Zealand, I really haven’t yet achieved my OE.

Either I’m loosing the plot (or everyone thinks I am), as my Wife Bridget suggests I should go, and then my Boss Marcel asks “so are you going?”.

Six weeks away from home/work…. I didn’t think I’d get permission from either of them!

So here I am…. Committed. In whatever sense of the word you care to choose.

Am I scared? – Better believe it!

This is so far outside my comfort zone I'm tempted to change my mind.....