We're up just on sunrise with a big day planned (read the worst roads of the trip).
Looking around I spy a wet black nose poking our from under the flap of Jack and Richard's tent. No Richard.. those farts during the night weren't Jack after all!!
The 13km ou to the main road (and Batal) seems a lot shorter now that we're well rested and fed.
The road between Batal and Chhota is the worst we've experienced. It's almost impassable on a bike loaded up with panniers. Front suspension is a must! (or so say Dad and Richard, neither of whom have front suspension).
Our average speed over this 16km flat section is 6km/h. Incredibly slow. I'm told that this section of road would be dead easy on a full suspension bike. Quote "You wouldn't even feel
the bumps".
The further we go down the valley the smoother the gravel road surface becomes (between potholes). But be warned... beside each smooth section is a pile of freshly smashed fist sized rocks, ready to fix the road back to it's normal bumpy condition. This MUST be the worst section of road in India.
After lunch at a Dahba (that's all there is at Chhota) we carry on down the spectacular glaciated valley to Chhatu.
The gravel road is now much better, but still rough compared to what we've travelled to date. Both yesterday and today are the only days during the trip where there is no tar seal (not that that makes much difference).
The valley sides are almost vertical giant slabs of granite warn smooth from millions of years of grinding glacial ice.
We locate a "night stay" (the only building that doesn't have a yellow taop for a roof) in Chhota. It's a concrete bunker with 12 beds lined up along each wall, with a garage roller door for the entrance. 50ru per head. Heaps cheaper than our usual 200-1000ru's for a hotel room.
For some reason Richard and Jack opt to pitch their tent in a local field.
There are three "tent" cafes, one of which serves finger chips. That's where we eat.
On asking where I should go to the toilet I am directed to the nearest field. Choose a spot and don't be shy because there's nowhere to hide. Bit disconcerting having a squat and hearing womans voices walking down the road behind you. Ok well.... when in Rome.....
At least they sell toilet paper here!
Kunzum appears happy - she's got a boyfriend here. They spend the evening play fighting.
During the evening an Indian cyclist (Sudipto) who we've seen in Pooh, Nako, and Kaza arrives from Losar. Quite a ride - he's tired. He tried to go to Chandra Tal but it got too steep.
He stays in the same place as us and joins in the evening "Listener Crossword".